Starlink Gen 3 Standard vs Gen 2 Actuated: Full Comparison
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If you’re facing a decision between the older Starlink Actuated and the newer Starlink Standard model, it’s important to know all the key differences so you can pick the right model for your situation. I’ve owned and tested both the Standard and Actuated dishes extensively, so in this comparison guide, I’ll break down all the major changes.
Starlink’s 3rd generation “Standard” dish was released in late 2023, featuring an improved Wifi router and a brand new antenna design. Although the Gen 2 “Actuated” model isn’t sold by Starlink anymore, you can still order it from retailers as well as on the used market. Whether you are brand new to Starlink, or considering an upgrade, let me break down all the changes.
Antenna Design and Size
The biggest difference between Gen 2 Actuated and Gen 3 Standard is the design of the antenna/dish. In fact, it’s right there in the name. Gen 2 uses actuators (electric motors) that automatically align the antenna to the optimal position based on your location, hence the “Actuated” name.
Staring with the Gen 3 Standard, Starlink decided to remove the built-in mast and actuators from all future Starlink antennas. Instead of motors that can automatically rotate the dish, customers have to manually align the dish using the Starlink app during the initial setup process.
One common misconception is that Starlink dishes constantly move and adjust to follow the satellites. Starlink’s don’t have to move at all. In fact, the signal from the satellites is electronically steered by the active phased array antenna. No actuators or movement is required as long as the dish has a clear view of the sky above.
The actuators on Gen 1 and Gen 2 hardware versions were useful when the Starlink constellation was still small with only a few thousand satellites. But these days, getting the right alignment isn’t as important. Making the dishes smaller, lighter, and cheaper are a higher priority for Starlink.
The Standard dish is bigger, but more portable. The Actuated antenna is about 12″ wide and 20″ long, while the Standard measures 12″ wide and 24″ long. The increased antenna surface area gives the Standard a higher field of view (FOV), 110 degrees vs 100 degrees. The Actuated dish has a much thicker and taller form factor because of the built in mast and motors, making the Standard much easier to travel around with.
Having used the Gen 3 Standard for almost a year at my own home, I will say that the lack of motors and the manual alignment isn’t a big deal at all. I did the manual alignment when I first installed the dish on my roof. It took less than 30 seconds. Since then, I haven’t had to readjust anything.
The tradeoff of motors for portability is one I would make any day. I also use a Standard dish for traveling in my Scamp travel trailer. Packing the Actuated version away in my small camper was a challenge, but with the Standard it’s a breeze.
Wifi Router Performance
The Actuated hardware kit comes with the Gen 2 Starlink Wifi router, which uses Wifi 5 technology. It is mesh-enabled, meaning you can wirelessly pair additional Gen 2 or Gen 3 routers to increase the coverage area of your Wifi network. The Gen 2 router doesn’t have Ethernet ports to connect devices, but Starlink does offer an Ethernet Adapter to give you a single LAN port. The Gen 2 router in the Actuated kit can cover up to 2000 sq. ft.
The Standard hardware kit includes the upgraded Starlink Gen 3 router. The Gen 3 router uses Wifi 6 technology, allowing for faster Wifi speed and better range compared to the Actuated router. The Gen 3 router can cover up to 3,200 sq. ft., and has a tri band radio for improved mesh performance.
Starlink listened to customer feedback regarding the lack of Ethernet ports on the Gen 2 router, and included 2 Ethernet LAN ports on the Gen 3 router. Other improvements compared to Gen 2 include a physical reset button and a multi-color status LED on the front of the router.
In my Starlink Gen 3 Router Review I tested the Wifi range and speeds between the Actuated and Standard routers. I found the Gen 3 router from the Standard kit to provide up to 4 times higher transfer speeds. The jump from Wifi 5 to Wifi 6 is massive, and the Standard router has much improved range and Wifi speeds.
Starlink Cable Design
A single 50 ft. cable, called the Starlink cable, connects the dish to the Wifi router on both the Standard and Actuated. Longer versions are available for both. The major difference is the type of connectors on each end of the Starlink cable. The Actuated model uses proprietary connectors while the Standard uses common RJ45 connectors.
I’ve routed both the Actuated cable and Standard cable through the exterior of my home and garage several times for various reviews and hardware tests. I prefer the Gen 3 Standard cable due to the industry standard RJ45 connectors. The cable is reversible, it doesn’t matter which end plugs into the dish or router on the Standard. That’s not the case with the Actuated cable. I’ve also seen a lot more failures with the Actuated cable due to the finicky proprietary connectors. The Standard cable seems to be more reliable and less prone to issues.
Mounting and Accessories
No matter which hardware option you pick, you will have several mounting options to choose from. Starlink offers several types of mounts for both Standard and Actuated. You can also use aftermarket mounts and poles with the Starlink Pipe Adapter, which is available for both models.
Both dishes can be installed directly to a roof, facia, eave, or exterior wall with the appropriate mount. Although the design of the Standard kit doesn’t include a mast, a mast section is included with most of the Standard mounting kits.
I would say it’s a tie when it comes to mounting options. You have a lot of options with either dish, with many of the same Starlink mounts available for both. To learn more about mounting your Starlink dish, check out my Starlink Roof Mount Guide.
Like with the mounting options, the accessories offered for the Standard and Actuated are similar. Starlink sells longer cables, mesh routers, travel cases, and installation accessories for both models.
The downside to buying an Actuated dish is that those accessories are being phased out. No new Gen 2 Actuated accessories are being developed, and when they sell off the remaining inventory, current accessories will become unavailable as well. One of the big advantages to picking the Standard is that it’s current generation hardware and will be supported for much longer than the Actuated dish.
Performance and Reliability
Generally, the Starlink dish model you pick doesn’t affect your internet speed or reliability. The bigger factors for performance are your location, service plan, and whether or not you have any obstructions blocking the view of the antenna.
I’ve tested every single Starlink dish head to head, and I found that they are all very similar in terms of internet speed and latency. Both the Standard and Actuated models will deliver the maximum speeds available for your region and service plan.
The Standard hardware does have a slight reliability advantage in weather. The bigger power supply and more powerful antenna allows for better performance in rain and snow, where satellite internet generally struggles to maintain a good connection.
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Price, Availability, and Service Plans
Starlink only sells the Standard model now in most of the world, with Actuated available on the used market and at some 3rd party retailers. The Standard costs $349 directly from Starlink and retailers like Home Depot.
When it was the current hardware being sold by Starlink, the Actuated kit was more expensive at $599. With the Standard costing nearly half that, I wouldn’t recommend considering the Actuated unless it was priced well below the $349 price of a brand new Standard kit.
Both the Standard and Actuated are compatible with all the Starlink service plans. You can use either model for Starlink Roam, Residential, or Business.
Bottom Line: Which hardware should you buy?
At this point, I’ve covered all the important differences between the Gen 2 Actuated and the Gen 3 Standard hardware options. So, which one should you pick if you are buying Starlink for the first time?
In my opinion, the Standard dish is the best option. Not only is it the latest and greatest technology from Starlink, it has the following advantages vs the Actuated dish:
- Better Wifi router with improved range and speeds
- More portable and packable design
- The RJ45 connectors on the Starlink cable are more reliable
- It will be supported with service and accessories for longer
The Actuated dish is still a good option if you don’t like some of the design changes with Standard. If the self-aiming feature seems very important to you, the Actuated dish is the way to go. That guarantees you won’t have to climb back up on your roof to make adjustments if Starlink requires them in the future. Although this has never happened to me in nearly a year of owning the Standard, it might be worth considering if you have to mount your dish on a tall tower.
What about upgrading from Gen 1 or Gen 2?
If you currently own a Gen 1 or Gen 2 Actuated system, and are wondering about upgrading to the Gen 3 Standard dish, I don’t think it’s worth it. The upgrades I listed above for Gen 3 are nice to have, but won’t really change your internet experience drastically if you already have a working Starlink system.
You can gain many of the Gen 3 improvements by upgrading your Wifi router on the Actuated system. For example, invest in a Starlink mesh system to improve Wifi range and speeds. I wouldn’t worry about any of the other differences, like the Starlink cable, until they become a problem for you. At that point you can worry about switching to whatever version dish Starlink is currently selling.
Final Thoughts
The Actuated dish is Starlink’s 2nd generation hardware, while the Standard is the latest 3rd generation dish. There are several design changes between the two, including the elimination of the actuators and an upgraded Wifi router. Since the Standard dish is the only one being sold and serviced by Starlink right now, it’s my recommended choice for brand new Starlink customers.
If you already own a Gen 1 or Gen 2 dish and are wondering if you should upgrade, I would wait. There isn’t anything about the Standard dish that makes the older models obsolete.
If you have additional questions or concerns, leave me a comment. I’d be happy to discuss and offer advice for your specific situation.
Hi
Great article and has helped make my decision… I think. My question is, can the Standard cable be extended with an Ethernet cable? My dish has to be a long way from my house due to trees and I have a small shed with the Ethernet port in it. I’d much prefer to have the Gen 3 router in the house rather than in the shed where the current Gen 2 sits. Right now I have the Gen 2 router in the shed with the Ethernet adaptor, then Ethernet under the ground to a port in the house where it’s distributed from there. There’s not a Starlink Actuated cable long enough to make it from my actuated dish to the house. Thanks for your help.
The Gen 3 Standard cable can be extended pretty easily: https://www.starlinkhardware.com/aftermarket-cable-extension-for-starlink/
But not the Gen 2 Standard Actuated. I recommend buying the 150′ Gen 2 cable from Starlink: https://www.starlink.com/shop/products/us-consumer-150-replacement-cable-gen2
150′ is the max distance for Starlink cables. If you need more than that the solution you implemented already, with an Ethernet LAN run, is the best option. Then inside you can invest in a good 3rd party router and put the Starlink unit in bypass mode.
Hi
Great article and has helped make my decision… I think. My question is, can the Standard cable be extended with an Ethernet cable? My dish has to be a long way from my house due to trees and I have a small shed with the Ethernet port in it. I’d much prefer to have the Gen 3 router in the house rather than in the shed where the current Gen 2 sits. Right now I have the Gen 2 router in the shed with the Ethernet adaptor, then Ethernet under the ground to a port in the house where it’s distributed from there. There’s not a Starlink Actuated cable long enough to make it from my actuated dish to the house. Thanks for your help.
The Gen 3 Standard cable can be extended pretty easily: https://www.starlinkhardware.com/aftermarket-cable-extension-for-starlink/
But not the Gen 2 Standard Actuated. I recommend buying the 150′ Gen 2 cable from Starlink: https://www.starlink.com/shop/products/us-consumer-150-replacement-cable-gen2
150′ is the max distance for Starlink cables. If you need more than that the solution you implemented already, with an Ethernet LAN run, is the best option. Then inside you can invest in a good 3rd party router and put the Starlink unit in bypass mode.
Hi, can you operate the gen 3 without a wifi router and only the ethernet port? Thanks!
In bypass mode only the Ethernet ports work, however, no routing functions are available either. You would need a 3rd party router with Wifi disabled to have proper routing so devices could get IP addresses.
Hi, can you operate the gen 3 without a wifi router and only the ethernet port? Thanks!
In bypass mode only the Ethernet ports work, however, no routing functions are available either. You would need a 3rd party router with Wifi disabled to have proper routing so devices could get IP addresses.
Does star link offer a static ip that will work with a dahua nvr security camera system?
Does star link offer a static ip that will work with a dahua nvr security camera system?
Hi Noah.
Excellent article and has clarified alot of questions I couldn’t seem to find a clear answer on. My situation is that I am from New Zealand and have a boat in the Caribbean that I am returning to soon and will sail in this area for the next year or two. Based on your article I definitely will order a Gen 3 standard kit. However two questions:
(a) I think it is best for me to order the roaming plan for the US as this area covers north and central america and caribbean rather than having to use the more expensive global plan? Most of the sailing in the Caribbean is coastal and open water I can upgrade my plan to the Mobile Priority for these short periods?
(b) I can order and have delivered to a friend in the US who is coming down to join on the boat. Other than saving me the hassle of bringing from New Zealand is there any advantage in terms of doing this so I can get on the US roaming plan as above?
Any info much appreciated as these are the last two things I can’t seem to get a clear answer on.
Cheers
Craig
Hi Noah.
Excellent article and has clarified alot of questions I couldn’t seem to find a clear answer on. My situation is that I am from New Zealand and have a boat in the Caribbean that I am returning to soon and will sail in this area for the next year or two. Based on your article I definitely will order a Gen 3 standard kit. However two questions:
(a) I think it is best for me to order the roaming plan for the US as this area covers north and central america and caribbean rather than having to use the more expensive global plan? Most of the sailing in the Caribbean is coastal and open water I can upgrade my plan to the Mobile Priority for these short periods?
(b) I can order and have delivered to a friend in the US who is coming down to join on the boat. Other than saving me the hassle of bringing from New Zealand is there any advantage in terms of doing this so I can get on the US roaming plan as above?
Any info much appreciated as these are the last two things I can’t seem to get a clear answer on.
Cheers
Craig
Hi can I use the flat high performance dish with the Gen3 router for in motion use on a vehicle? Can I order the Starlink Gen3 with the flat high performance dish?
Yes, the Gen 3 router is compatible with the HP dish. The HP dish no longer comes with a router, so you will have to add a Gen 3 router to your order to get one.
Hi Noah,
Can I pause the Residential service plan like the Roam.
kind regards
George
Hi can I use the flat high performance dish with the Gen3 router for in motion use on a vehicle? Can I order the Starlink Gen3 with the flat high performance dish?
Yes, the Gen 3 router is compatible with the HP dish. The HP dish no longer comes with a router, so you will have to add a Gen 3 router to your order to get one.
Hi Noah,
Can I pause the Residential service plan like the Roam.
kind regards
George
Hi Noah,
this is the most straightforward blog on the different models I’ve come across and has reduced rather than added to the confusion. So thanks for that. My dilemma on purchasing a gen 2 or gen 3 hasn’t been resolved, but there are some excellent gen 2 deals currently (eg 50% off hardware in Germany), and would use it occasionally for travel to remote places (with month to month contract).
I’m based in South Africa where Starlink hasn’t rolled out yet and users on local roam services are being cut off (if contracting via neighbouring countries where Starlink is available). To avoid this for an upcoming trip to Namibia and Botswana, can I source the hardware (kit) in Germany through own channels – but still via the Starlink website / shop – and would I then have to take out a global roaming package (month to month) to ensure it definitely works in Namibia and Botswana for a month?
Where can I first activate it – must this be in (say) Germany where the hardware kit is obtained, or can it be in a country without official Starlink representation yet? Since it wont be RV rooftop mounted, the flat mount of the gen 3 is less of an issue, happy for it to be on the ground with clear view while vehicle is parked in the shade.
Would appreciate hearing from you on the roaming service and place of first activation (given possible constraints by Starlink on users with regional roaming services in Southern Africa, when used in unauthorised localities).
It doesn’t have to be activated physically in any specific place, however, to activate and pay you would need a bank account in the country you are trying to activate in.
Thank you, that is helpful. In other words, I can import it to South Africa from a European country (where I have a bank account), and use that card to pay, yet do the unboxing and initial activation from South Africa. The mobile roaming plan would then apply – quite costly – but it would work. And there’s no need to take it back to any home country periodically, if on the global mobile plan.
Sorry, edit: I misread your response.
I would need a bank account in the country where I first activate it, not the country that I source it from (e.g. source it in the UK or in Germany, take it to South Africa, and activate it there with a SA bank account).
I don’t think it matters where you pay from as long as you have an acceptable payment option. I got mine from a licenced African country and had it on regional roam while I used it in a different and unlicensed country for a few months. I was paying from my unlicensed country bank account to the country of activation.
Now things have changed, my country finally got licensed. Moved from roam to my country’s cheaper residential plan
Hi Noah,
this is the most straightforward blog on the different models I’ve come across and has reduced rather than added to the confusion. So thanks for that. My dilemma on purchasing a gen 2 or gen 3 hasn’t been resolved, but there are some excellent gen 2 deals currently (eg 50% off hardware in Germany), and would use it occasionally for travel to remote places (with month to month contract).
I’m based in South Africa where Starlink hasn’t rolled out yet and users on local roam services are being cut off (if contracting via neighbouring countries where Starlink is available). To avoid this for an upcoming trip to Namibia and Botswana, can I source the hardware (kit) in Germany through own channels – but still via the Starlink website / shop – and would I then have to take out a global roaming package (month to month) to ensure it definitely works in Namibia and Botswana for a month?
Where can I first activate it – must this be in (say) Germany where the hardware kit is obtained, or can it be in a country without official Starlink representation yet? Since it wont be RV rooftop mounted, the flat mount of the gen 3 is less of an issue, happy for it to be on the ground with clear view while vehicle is parked in the shade.
Would appreciate hearing from you on the roaming service and place of first activation (given possible constraints by Starlink on users with regional roaming services in Southern Africa, when used in unauthorised localities).
It doesn’t have to be activated physically in any specific place, however, to activate and pay you would need a bank account in the country you are trying to activate in.
Thank you, that is helpful. In other words, I can import it to South Africa from a European country (where I have a bank account), and use that card to pay, yet do the unboxing and initial activation from South Africa. The mobile roaming plan would then apply – quite costly – but it would work. And there’s no need to take it back to any home country periodically, if on the global mobile plan.
Sorry, edit: I misread your response.
I would need a bank account in the country where I first activate it, not the country that I source it from (e.g. source it in the UK or in Germany, take it to South Africa, and activate it there with a SA bank account).
I don’t think it matters where you pay from as long as you have an acceptable payment option. I got mine from a licenced African country and had it on regional roam while I used it in a different and unlicensed country for a few months. I was paying from my unlicensed country bank account to the country of activation.
Now things have changed, my country finally got licensed. Moved from roam to my country’s cheaper residential plan
I’m thinking about installing one in my boat, but I’m in doubt about how the gen 2 actuators would work on a boat. Do you think the antenna will keep realigning as the boat moves, even at anchor? I’m abroad and here they still sell the gen 2 antenna. The less power hungry gen 2 is a plus, but I don’t know if this is the best option (due to the presence of the motors) or if it’s better to wait for the gen 3 antenna. Disabling the motors would not be the ideal solution for me as I intend to also use the antenna at my house.
From what I’ve seen, it will occasionally adjust itself if the alignment is way off from where it wants to be pointing. I think Gen 3 is a better option for sure, but if it’s not available, plenty of people have been using Gen 2 on boats for years. Should work fine.
Bob – I was sailing earlier this year in the Caribbean and a friend brought an actuated model. We had the stand in a fishing rod holder on the back of the sailboat and worked very well. Not alot of alignment. Craig
I’m thinking about installing one in my boat, but I’m in doubt about how the gen 2 actuators would work on a boat. Do you think the antenna will keep realigning as the boat moves, even at anchor? I’m abroad and here they still sell the gen 2 antenna. The less power hungry gen 2 is a plus, but I don’t know if this is the best option (due to the presence of the motors) or if it’s better to wait for the gen 3 antenna. Disabling the motors would not be the ideal solution for me as I intend to also use the antenna at my house.
From what I’ve seen, it will occasionally adjust itself if the alignment is way off from where it wants to be pointing. I think Gen 3 is a better option for sure, but if it’s not available, plenty of people have been using Gen 2 on boats for years. Should work fine.
Bob – I was sailing earlier this year in the Caribbean and a friend brought an actuated model. We had the stand in a fishing rod holder on the back of the sailboat and worked very well. Not alot of alignment. Craig
Noah….. understanding that the standard dish “mounting options put the Standard dish at about a 20 degree angle” how important will it be that the dish be placed in a “level” position in order to make a connection? Often RV sites are less than level so placing boards beneath the front wheels becomes necessary to properly level our motorhome. Is it safe to assume that minor leveling issues with the placement of the standard dish would not be a problem?
Minor variations of the ground won’t be an issue for the angle of the dish. The Standard has a wider field of view, and as long as it is aimed according to the app, you shouldn’t have any issues.
Noah….. understanding that the standard dish “mounting options put the Standard dish at about a 20 degree angle” how important will it be that the dish be placed in a “level” position in order to make a connection? Often RV sites are less than level so placing boards beneath the front wheels becomes necessary to properly level our motorhome. Is it safe to assume that minor leveling issues with the placement of the standard dish would not be a problem?
Minor variations of the ground won’t be an issue for the angle of the dish. The Standard has a wider field of view, and as long as it is aimed according to the app, you shouldn’t have any issues.
Noah….given that the antenna “mounting options put the Standard dish at about a 20 degree angle” how important will it be that I place the antenna on level ground? Often RV sites are less than level. At times leveling a motorhome requires placing boards under the front wheels in order to get “close” to level so that air leveling, using the airbags on the MH, is possible. Would I be correct to assume that minor level issues in placing the dish would not cause connection issues?
Correct. I would not worry about the angle of the ground unless the slope is severe, and generally, people wouldn’t be camping on that kind of slope anyway.
Noah….given that the antenna “mounting options put the Standard dish at about a 20 degree angle” how important will it be that I place the antenna on level ground? Often RV sites are less than level. At times leveling a motorhome requires placing boards under the front wheels in order to get “close” to level so that air leveling, using the airbags on the MH, is possible. Would I be correct to assume that minor level issues in placing the dish would not cause connection issues?
Correct. I would not worry about the angle of the ground unless the slope is severe, and generally, people wouldn’t be camping on that kind of slope anyway.
Thanks for this. I downloaded the Starlink app, but there is no box to click for the find a location feature. Did they make it so that you have to order first and go through the setup process before you can test a location? Also, we don’t want to put it on top of our house. Can I mount it on the ground? We have a fairly open field, and when I used the old app to test location a few years ago, that was the best spot. Would need about 100’ of cable to get it to where I need. What is the best way to set that up? And have you ever seen anyone build some sort of “cage” around it to keep dogs and wild animals out? Thanks!
Open the app, click Start Setup. Then click Skip Setup when it asks which dish you have. Confirm you want to Skip. In the menu, select Obstructions, then hit the button that says Scan For Obstructions. Select the dish you will be ordering.
You can mount it in the open if you wish. If ordering the Standard Actuated, Starlink actually makes a pole mount for this. With any other model, you can use the Starlink Pipe Adapter accessory to adapt the dish to any mast/pole you can find. Starlink sells up to 150′ of cable, so that should work for your application. You will need to bury the cable in conduit, it cannot be buried directly in the ground.
I haven’t seen cages or anything. My recommendation would be to install it on a tall enough pole or post that nothing can get to it from the ground.
Thanks for this. I downloaded the Starlink app, but there is no box to click for the find a location feature. Did they make it so that you have to order first and go through the setup process before you can test a location? Also, we don’t want to put it on top of our house. Can I mount it on the ground? We have a fairly open field, and when I used the old app to test location a few years ago, that was the best spot. Would need about 100’ of cable to get it to where I need. What is the best way to set that up? And have you ever seen anyone build some sort of “cage” around it to keep dogs and wild animals out? Thanks!
Open the app, click Start Setup. Then click Skip Setup when it asks which dish you have. Confirm you want to Skip. In the menu, select Obstructions, then hit the button that says Scan For Obstructions. Select the dish you will be ordering.
You can mount it in the open if you wish. If ordering the Standard Actuated, Starlink actually makes a pole mount for this. With any other model, you can use the Starlink Pipe Adapter accessory to adapt the dish to any mast/pole you can find. Starlink sells up to 150′ of cable, so that should work for your application. You will need to bury the cable in conduit, it cannot be buried directly in the ground.
I haven’t seen cages or anything. My recommendation would be to install it on a tall enough pole or post that nothing can get to it from the ground.
I am trying to order the 3rd Gen (Standard). When I try to order Starlink Residential, and put in my address, it doesn’t give me the option of Standard or Standard Actuated. The picture shows the Standard Actuated. But, if I choose Roam, and put in my address, it gives me the option to choose Standard or Standard Actuated. How do I know that I will get the Standard 3rd Gen? Do I need to purchase the Roam, and pay the $150 for the first month, and then switch my plan to residential, the $120 plan, to ensure that I get the 3rd Gen?
Thanks!
Standard (Gen 3) isn’t yet available on Residential for all areas of the US. So you would need to order it on Roam and convert later.
I am trying to order the 3rd Gen (Standard). When I try to order Starlink Residential, and put in my address, it doesn’t give me the option of Standard or Standard Actuated. The picture shows the Standard Actuated. But, if I choose Roam, and put in my address, it gives me the option to choose Standard or Standard Actuated. How do I know that I will get the Standard 3rd Gen? Do I need to purchase the Roam, and pay the $150 for the first month, and then switch my plan to residential, the $120 plan, to ensure that I get the 3rd Gen?
Thanks!
Standard (Gen 3) isn’t yet available on Residential for all areas of the US. So you would need to order it on Roam and convert later.
Does the new dish have a regular ethernet cord or does it still have the non-standard one used in the Gen 2 actuated dish? I am planning to run it from 12v with 12-48v converter and POE injector without the starlink router. Wondering if I can use standard POE injector without any cable adapters or cord re-wiring.
It has standard cables, but the dish operates at 57V DC, not 48V like the previous generation.
Have you tried a standard Ethernet cable to see if they work? I haven’t seen anything on that yet in my internet searches. By the way, I attached my gen 3 system to a watt meter, I averaged 55 watts for my first week of using it in South East AZ. Full time RVer. I am happy with my purchase and glad I got the early adopter deal with 2 months free service. I am waiting on the improved pole adapter to come in a week or so to mount to my portable flag pole.
I haven’t tested it fully yet. I’m working on a post about aftermarket cables. There are two applications I can see. For an RV or other short run situation, an aftermarket cable completely replaces the Starlink cable, and is much shorter to prevent having excess cable. For home installations, people need longer runs. The longer Starlink cable is expensive compared to aftermarket options. And aftermarket offers much more lengths to choose from. But instead of completely replacing the Starlink cable, I’m going to suggest leaving the 50′ Starlink cable connected to the dish, and simply using a waterproof coupler to connect an aftermarket cable extension. That way, the Starlink moisture seal remains on the dish end, but you still get the benefit of using the cheaper aftermarket cable to extend the length. I’ll send out a newsletter update when the post is finished and I have all the details.
Does the new dish have a regular ethernet cord or does it still have the non-standard one used in the Gen 2 actuated dish? I am planning to run it from 12v with 12-48v converter and POE injector without the starlink router. Wondering if I can use standard POE injector without any cable adapters or cord re-wiring.
It has standard cables, but the dish operates at 57V DC, not 48V like the previous generation.
Have you tried a standard Ethernet cable to see if they work? I haven’t seen anything on that yet in my internet searches. By the way, I attached my gen 3 system to a watt meter, I averaged 55 watts for my first week of using it in South East AZ. Full time RVer. I am happy with my purchase and glad I got the early adopter deal with 2 months free service. I am waiting on the improved pole adapter to come in a week or so to mount to my portable flag pole.
I haven’t tested it fully yet. I’m working on a post about aftermarket cables. There are two applications I can see. For an RV or other short run situation, an aftermarket cable completely replaces the Starlink cable, and is much shorter to prevent having excess cable. For home installations, people need longer runs. The longer Starlink cable is expensive compared to aftermarket options. And aftermarket offers much more lengths to choose from. But instead of completely replacing the Starlink cable, I’m going to suggest leaving the 50′ Starlink cable connected to the dish, and simply using a waterproof coupler to connect an aftermarket cable extension. That way, the Starlink moisture seal remains on the dish end, but you still get the benefit of using the cheaper aftermarket cable to extend the length. I’ll send out a newsletter update when the post is finished and I have all the details.
Just a question. Should I still use an external router on the new standard Gen 3?
In my opinion, only if you need more advanced networking features that the Starlink router doesn’t offer.
Just a question. Should I still use an external router on the new standard Gen 3?
In my opinion, only if you need more advanced networking features that the Starlink router doesn’t offer.
Noah
Can I order direct from you?
Live in Namibia, Africa, but work in different counties in Africa.
Currently we have to buy from Zambia.
No, I don’t sell Starlink and I am not affiliated with them in any way. This is just a fan run blog covering Starlink news and topics.
Noah
Can I order direct from you?
Live in Namibia, Africa, but work in different counties in Africa.
Currently we have to buy from Zambia.
No, I don’t sell Starlink and I am not affiliated with them in any way. This is just a fan run blog covering Starlink news and topics.
I think that without obvious optimization of network speed, lower power consumption and automatic alignment function must be more suitable for our needs. Especially for those RV customers, the increased power consumption is simply fatal.
Also, the fact that 12v DC conversions for Gen 3 are very limited. Gen 2 is still a great option for RV customers who are worried about every watt.
I think that without obvious optimization of network speed, lower power consumption and automatic alignment function must be more suitable for our needs. Especially for those RV customers, the increased power consumption is simply fatal.
Also, the fact that 12v DC conversions for Gen 3 are very limited. Gen 2 is still a great option for RV customers who are worried about every watt.
Thanks. Very helpful overview.
Thanks. Very helpful overview.
I assume they are planning on replacing the Gen 2 system completely. I hope they plan on making it a slow transition by offering both Gen 2 and Gen 3 at the same time. I am a full time installer in the field and I have many customers who get very confused by what they need. I got to play around with the Gen 3 for the first time today and I am happy with the built in ethernet ports and new cable design. The mounting bracket options are very limited and seem to be designed for low wind areas.
Update on my previous post, they are not planning on replacing Gen 2 systems with Gen 3. The inside scoop is they are trying to replace the Gen 1 High Performance antenna. They are still operating Gen 1 Beta systems so i don’t think there is any hazard of people getting disconnected with the upgrade. Starlink has a good track record of not screwing over their customers so far, however they are terrible at communicating to the public.
Thanks for the info!
Hi Eric,
I install in central Texas. The Gen 3 dish doesn’t appear to have much to secure it to a roof. The self actuated dish allows it to lock onto the satellite at whatever angle is needed and is secured to the mast. I never mount the base it comes with as 99% of the roofs we have are pitched, not flat, so getting the mast plumb with the stand is impossible. Other than learning the system by experience, I haven’t found any training materials. I have been using a 2” Directv mast with an adapter that allows the dish mast to snap in secure. What are your thoughts for mounting to insure the dish can lock on well to the desired satellite?
I assume they are planning on replacing the Gen 2 system completely. I hope they plan on making it a slow transition by offering both Gen 2 and Gen 3 at the same time. I am a full time installer in the field and I have many customers who get very confused by what they need. I got to play around with the Gen 3 for the first time today and I am happy with the built in ethernet ports and new cable design. The mounting bracket options are very limited and seem to be designed for low wind areas.
Update on my previous post, they are not planning on replacing Gen 2 systems with Gen 3. The inside scoop is they are trying to replace the Gen 1 High Performance antenna. They are still operating Gen 1 Beta systems so i don’t think there is any hazard of people getting disconnected with the upgrade. Starlink has a good track record of not screwing over their customers so far, however they are terrible at communicating to the public.
Thanks for the info!
Hi Eric,
I install in central Texas. The Gen 3 dish doesn’t appear to have much to secure it to a roof. The self actuated dish allows it to lock onto the satellite at whatever angle is needed and is secured to the mast. I never mount the base it comes with as 99% of the roofs we have are pitched, not flat, so getting the mast plumb with the stand is impossible. Other than learning the system by experience, I haven’t found any training materials. I have been using a 2” Directv mast with an adapter that allows the dish mast to snap in secure. What are your thoughts for mounting to insure the dish can lock on well to the desired satellite?
Suspect this might NOT be what you wanted to say: In my opinion, the Standard dish is the best option. Not only is it the latest and greatest technology from Starlink, it has the following advantages vs the Standard Actuated dish:
Suspect this might NOT be what you wanted to say: In my opinion, the Standard dish is the best option. Not only is it the latest and greatest technology from Starlink, it has the following advantages vs the Standard Actuated dish:
If the Gen 2 is being phased out, how does that affect those who already have Gen 2? I purchased mine just a couple months before the Gen 3 came out. What if I have problems with my Gen 2?
You will still be able to find spare parts for some time. But a couple years down the road, if your Gen 2 dish breaks, you will likely have to change to the next generation. This is what happens to current Gen 1 users. If they have a problem with equipment, Starlink doesn’t service Gen 1, so Starlink simply sends them an entire Gen 2/Gen 3 kit as a replacement.
If the Gen 2 is being phased out, how does that affect those who already have Gen 2? I purchased mine just a couple months before the Gen 3 came out. What if I have problems with my Gen 2?
You will still be able to find spare parts for some time. But a couple years down the road, if your Gen 2 dish breaks, you will likely have to change to the next generation. This is what happens to current Gen 1 users. If they have a problem with equipment, Starlink doesn’t service Gen 1, so Starlink simply sends them an entire Gen 2/Gen 3 kit as a replacement.
Thanks for helpful info. A few more questions on Gen 2 vs 3, if you have the answers:
1. How long does it take to boot the Gen 3 dish (you say 15 minutes for Gen 2). I use it while roaming, and have it semi-permanently mounted, it may point in different directions each day, so I want to know how long the gen 3 would take to reboot each day:
a. Rather than having either dish mounted to be pointed 10-20 degrees to a certain compass heading, how would performance be degraded if I mount it parallel to earth’s surface at all times, so I don’t have to rotate it each day? Would restarting it take longer this way?
b. What if it’s aimed 10-20 degrees in a certain direction, and the mounting surface changes direction, as with an RV or boat?
2. Can either or both have the dish heater turned off for warm-weather use, and how much power would that save?
3. For use while in motion, I understand I’d need a more expensive disk and plan, with data caps that cost more for more data. But what if I use it on a slow-moving sailboat, moving about 6-7 mph, would regular ROAM service work then? Would it have to constantly be re-aimed as v=boat sails at that speed and changes directions, to receive service, or perhaps its just be a somewhat reduced Ookla speed?
1. I haven’t had a change to time it exactly yet, but I can say that the boot time is less, because the dish doesn’t have to move.
1a. In my experience, flat mounting, where it points vertical all the time, works just fine. I haven’t done it with the Gen 3, but I have a Gen 2 dish that has been pointed straight up for months without any issues. The Gen 3 should be even better, due to a larger field of view. There are enough satellites now that it shouldn’t be a problem to be aiming straight up at all times, assuming you don’t have obstructions. When the dish restarts, it just needs to establish an initial satellite connection, and then you are good to go. Unless the dish is aimed at trees, the orientation doesn’t really matter that much at the time you restart it. It won’t significantly affect boot times.
1b. It’s an electronic phased array antenna, so exact direction doesn’t matter that much. The signal is electronically steered. It has a 110 degree field of view, so it is able to see satellites in a large area of the sky even if the direction is always changing in motion. That said, obviously the Flat High Performance, which is the only dish meant for in-motion, would be ideal for this situation compared to Gen 3. But for stationary use, Gen 3 would be just fine.
2. Both can have the heat function turned off. But auto works just fine as well. It’s not really a dedicated heater. When the dish signal level reaches a certain low point, the dish will start transmitting with increased power output in order to maintain a better signal. This is automatic, which is why sometimes even in light rain and warm temps, the dish will indicate “heating”. It’s not really heating, it’s just using extra power to be able to get the signal through the rain/fog/snow/dense clouds/etc. When you turn heating off, the dish won’t use extra power, and performance might be reduced in some weather situations as a result. You save energy because the dish will rarely hit those high wattage numbers on the consumption range for that model.
3. Yes, below 10 mph, Starlink doesn’t consider that in-motion. It doesn’t need to be re-aimed, there are enough sats that it should be able to maintain a connection without being optimally aimed all the time.
Thanks for helpful info. A few more questions on Gen 2 vs 3, if you have the answers:
1. How long does it take to boot the Gen 3 dish (you say 15 minutes for Gen 2). I use it while roaming, and have it semi-permanently mounted, it may point in different directions each day, so I want to know how long the gen 3 would take to reboot each day:
a. Rather than having either dish mounted to be pointed 10-20 degrees to a certain compass heading, how would performance be degraded if I mount it parallel to earth’s surface at all times, so I don’t have to rotate it each day? Would restarting it take longer this way?
b. What if it’s aimed 10-20 degrees in a certain direction, and the mounting surface changes direction, as with an RV or boat?
2. Can either or both have the dish heater turned off for warm-weather use, and how much power would that save?
3. For use while in motion, I understand I’d need a more expensive disk and plan, with data caps that cost more for more data. But what if I use it on a slow-moving sailboat, moving about 6-7 mph, would regular ROAM service work then? Would it have to constantly be re-aimed as v=boat sails at that speed and changes directions, to receive service, or perhaps its just be a somewhat reduced Ookla speed?
1. I haven’t had a change to time it exactly yet, but I can say that the boot time is less, because the dish doesn’t have to move.
1a. In my experience, flat mounting, where it points vertical all the time, works just fine. I haven’t done it with the Gen 3, but I have a Gen 2 dish that has been pointed straight up for months without any issues. The Gen 3 should be even better, due to a larger field of view. There are enough satellites now that it shouldn’t be a problem to be aiming straight up at all times, assuming you don’t have obstructions. When the dish restarts, it just needs to establish an initial satellite connection, and then you are good to go. Unless the dish is aimed at trees, the orientation doesn’t really matter that much at the time you restart it. It won’t significantly affect boot times.
1b. It’s an electronic phased array antenna, so exact direction doesn’t matter that much. The signal is electronically steered. It has a 110 degree field of view, so it is able to see satellites in a large area of the sky even if the direction is always changing in motion. That said, obviously the Flat High Performance, which is the only dish meant for in-motion, would be ideal for this situation compared to Gen 3. But for stationary use, Gen 3 would be just fine.
2. Both can have the heat function turned off. But auto works just fine as well. It’s not really a dedicated heater. When the dish signal level reaches a certain low point, the dish will start transmitting with increased power output in order to maintain a better signal. This is automatic, which is why sometimes even in light rain and warm temps, the dish will indicate “heating”. It’s not really heating, it’s just using extra power to be able to get the signal through the rain/fog/snow/dense clouds/etc. When you turn heating off, the dish won’t use extra power, and performance might be reduced in some weather situations as a result. You save energy because the dish will rarely hit those high wattage numbers on the consumption range for that model.
3. Yes, below 10 mph, Starlink doesn’t consider that in-motion. It doesn’t need to be re-aimed, there are enough sats that it should be able to maintain a connection without being optimally aimed all the time.
So, I live off grid here in Copalita, Oaxaca, Mex, near the tourist area Huatulco, and have a Gen 2 standard actuator. This and all the people here I know rave about the performance, we have a cool group and help new people with answers. Should I/we have a problem, how does starlink help us, get us maybe new cables or whatever might go wrong, and/or warrant the equipment. Who might we contact as to be without net is a BIG problem. So far been the best since carnitas tacos!
Thanks, feel free to email me.
For any issues you reach out directly to Starlink, via the Starlink app or website. You can also log in to your account on Starlink.com to order replacement parts like the cable or router. Here is how to contact Starlink if you need to in the future: https://www.starlinkhardware.com/how-to-contact-starlink-customer-support/
So, I live off grid here in Copalita, Oaxaca, Mex, near the tourist area Huatulco, and have a Gen 2 standard actuator. This and all the people here I know rave about the performance, we have a cool group and help new people with answers. Should I/we have a problem, how does starlink help us, get us maybe new cables or whatever might go wrong, and/or warrant the equipment. Who might we contact as to be without net is a BIG problem. So far been the best since carnitas tacos!
Thanks, feel free to email me.
For any issues you reach out directly to Starlink, via the Starlink app or website. You can also log in to your account on Starlink.com to order replacement parts like the cable or router. Here is how to contact Starlink if you need to in the future: https://www.starlinkhardware.com/how-to-contact-starlink-customer-support/
If I mount the Gen 3 dish on the roof, will the dish ever need to be rotated? Should I mount with an antenna rotor?
In my opinion, no, you won’t need to adjust the dish after the initial aiming. But it is certainly possible that Starlink will update your area to want dishes to point slightly one way or the other. If getting back to the roof is not an option after installation, a rotor might be worth it just to be prepared down the road.
What is a rotor for Starlink
They make antenna rotors that are designed to work with TV and other types of antennas. You can use one of these rotors to turn the antenna. Someone asked about using them for Gen 3 as a way to get actuation for the Gen 3 dish, that doesn’t have built in motors. I don’t recommend it, as re-aiming is not really a concern.
If I mount the Gen 3 dish on the roof, will the dish ever need to be rotated? Should I mount with an antenna rotor?
In my opinion, no, you won’t need to adjust the dish after the initial aiming. But it is certainly possible that Starlink will update your area to want dishes to point slightly one way or the other. If getting back to the roof is not an option after installation, a rotor might be worth it just to be prepared down the road.
What is a rotor for Starlink
They make antenna rotors that are designed to work with TV and other types of antennas. You can use one of these rotors to turn the antenna. Someone asked about using them for Gen 3 as a way to get actuation for the Gen 3 dish, that doesn’t have built in motors. I don’t recommend it, as re-aiming is not really a concern.
I am using my Gen 2 system at home in pass through mode with a Netgear router connecting to my home Cat 6 network. The main reason for this is that I need to have a static IP address for a large format printer the is turned off most of the time. Does the Hen 3 router still support pass through mode? Does the Gen 3 router allow you to assign static IP addresses?
Yes, the Gen 3 router still supports bypass mode to allow you to use your own router. The Gen 3 router doesn’t have any advanced networking features, it’s the same as Gen 2 in that regard. You would need to keep using your Netgear if you need to be able to assign static IP’s.
I am using my Gen 2 system at home in pass through mode with a Netgear router connecting to my home Cat 6 network. The main reason for this is that I need to have a static IP address for a large format printer the is turned off most of the time. Does the Hen 3 router still support pass through mode? Does the Gen 3 router allow you to assign static IP addresses?
Yes, the Gen 3 router still supports bypass mode to allow you to use your own router. The Gen 3 router doesn’t have any advanced networking features, it’s the same as Gen 2 in that regard. You would need to keep using your Netgear if you need to be able to assign static IP’s.
I have a Gen 2 kit with one mesh router. Would it increase speed to buy a Gen 3 router to use with my Gen 2 dish?
If you use the Gen 3 router as your main system router (bypassing the main Gen 2 router), you would see better Wifi speed and range. Internet speed likely wouldn’t change.
I have a Gen 2 kit with one mesh router. Would it increase speed to buy a Gen 3 router to use with my Gen 2 dish?
If you use the Gen 3 router as your main system router (bypassing the main Gen 2 router), you would see better Wifi speed and range. Internet speed likely wouldn’t change.
If I buy the roam, can it be converted to a standard fixed plan at a later date?
Yes, here is a guide explaining how: https://www.starlinkhardware.com/how-to-switch-from-residential-to-rv/
If I buy the roam, can it be converted to a standard fixed plan at a later date?
Yes, here is a guide explaining how: https://www.starlinkhardware.com/how-to-switch-from-residential-to-rv/
Can either the standard or the standard actuated be mounted facing straight up (like on top of a van) and work reliably without being further pointed? I know there is another version that is designed for fixed mounting but I have gen 2.
Can either the standard or the standard actuated be mounted facing straight up (like on top of a van) and work reliably without being further pointed? I know there is another version that is designed for fixed mounting but I have gen 2.